Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor first brought the international spotlight to this one-time small fishing town when filming nearby in 1964. A constant stream of tourists has been visiting ever since, and things have developed apace. The church in the town centre is still surrounded by cobbled streets, but these are now packed with bars, restaurants, art galleries, craft shops and tourist amenities. Despite this commercial focus, however, Puerto Vallarta retains an appealing, authentic atmosphere, and the forested hills and cobbled streets that surround the resort are still untouched. The gentle pace of life, a favourable climate and the proximity to both ocean and mountains has attracted a sizeable population of artists, idealists, life-stylists and wealthy expats, giving a cosmopolitan air to the town. Contemporary problems, such as traffic congestion, do exist, however. Mass commercial tourism is concentrated mainly in the strip of large hotels running N of the town; although these have a selection of local amenities surrounding them, they lack the charm and character of the town. There are also a few hotels S of the town where the beaches are smaller and more secluded.

Something for just about everyone - young and old, package tourists and independent travellers, sun-worshippers, soft-adventure groups and eco-tourists. Regular influxes of day-tripping cruise passengers, as Puerto Vallarta is a popular port of call.

From camping right through to upmarket, contemporary, marina-side hotels. Cheaper hotels tend to be in the town centre just S of the river. A few larger tourist establishments are located along the coast road to the S, but the main hotel zone stretches for around 5 mls N of the town along the coast to the purpose-built complex of Marina Vallarta.

The town centre has a promenade above a small, sandy beach that quickly gives way to large pebbles. S of the river is Playa de los Muertos and Playa Olas Altas, which have fine sand but strong undertows. Most hotels have access to a section of wide, sandy beach, but these are quite variable in quality and general appeal. The sand tends to be a mixture of grey, brown and golden, and the ocean tends to be a murky brown rather than clear and blue. Those seeking pristine white beaches and clear blue seas would do better on Mexico's Gulf Coast.

A decent assortment, mainly concentrated downtown on the plazas and around Juarez and Morelos Streets. For anyone interested in local arts and crafts, as opposed to international brands, the town centre offers rich pickings. Silver, iron, glass, ceramic, leather, wood, wool and cotton are all crafted with great skill and ingenuity. Mass-produced tat is also mixed in, although it is fairly easy to spot among the majority of superior items on offer. Flea market at Mercado Central.

Daytime: the beach and pool are the main "activities"; numerous water sports including diving, snorkelling, surfing, jet-skiing, water-skiing, parasailing and sailing; mountain biking and canoeing in the neighbouring hills; several golf courses; horse riding; sport fishing; dune-buggy rides; bungee jumping. Most hotels offer some sports facilities such as gyms and tennis courts. Nightlife: informal nightclubs and late-night bars and restaurants in the centre, many with live music; larger, more sophisticated nightclubs scattered throughout the northern hotel zone. Many hotels offer regular evening entertainment programmes.

Ranging from appealing street stalls and casual beachfront eateries to international-brand options and formal restaurants. The resort centre offers plenty of small, mid-range restaurants offering a variety of international cuisines. Vegetarians are well catered for. The selection around the main hotel districts is rather restricted. A beach speciality is barbecued fish on a skewer, doused with freshly squeezed lime.

A cheap, comprehensive bus service covers the whole area, but comfort levels aren't high and timetables, routes and connections can be difficult to ascertain. Taxis are readily available and, although generally cheap, the fares can begin to mount for those staying in outlying areas. Bicycle and car hire available.

Whale-watching (Nov to mid-April). Deep-sea fishing. Diving at Los Arcos underwater caves. Early morning and evening balloon rides over the bay. Trips through the mountains by horse or on foot. Jungle jeep safaris. Catamaran cruise to Islas Marietas. Overnight trip to Guadalajara.

Halfway up Mexico's Pacific (W) coast. 160 mls W of Guadalajara. 500 mls W of Mexico City. 550 mls NW of Acapulco. The resort centre is 4 mls S of the international airport.

Within the deep curve of Banderas Bay, with a limited coastal plain N of the town and the forested slopes of the Sierra Madre Mountains to the S. The modest River Cuale runs through the town centre almost unnoticed.

Telephone Area Code: 322
Website: www.visitpuertovallarta.com

Airport : Gustavo Diaz Ordaz
Airport Code: PVR