Primarily flat with low vegetation, Mexico's largest island (measuring 28 mls long by 10 mls wide) has little of interest apart from world-class diving and snorkelling and a couple of sites with minor Mayan ruins. The beaches, while perfectly acceptable and attractive, don't compare with what the mainland has to offer. Cozumel was a sleepy fishing community before French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau discovered its reefs and crystal-clear waters in 1961, after which it quickly developed into one of the world's top dive sites. The overall ambience is still low-key, although its single town, San Miguel, periodically transforms into a busy commercial centre packed with cruise-ship passengers, with one or more large cruisers visiting most days during high season. As a consequence of these short-stay, wealthy visitors - mainly American - the town has shops, bars, nightlife and restaurants that many larger places can only dream of; the quality is probably higher than elsewhere, but so are the prices. Away from San Miguel, amenities are limited to the hotels dotted along the coasts or basic local establishments at the better beaches.

Dominated by the American market, divers and short-stay visitors from cruise ships.

Simple, modest and often dated hotels in town, with larger, more modern offerings along the coasts.

In contrast to the mainland's long sandy expanses, most of Cozumel's shore is rocky with relatively modest but pleasant and well-spaced beaches; most hotels have direct access to a reasonable beach. The best beaches (and diving sites) line the W coast: Chankanaab Beach is one of the most attractive on the island, being designated a marine national park to protect the adjacent lagoon and reef; San Francisco Beach is probably the largest. Although the undeveloped E coast has several attractive offerings, the local currents and exposure to prevailing weather make them less appealing - hence the absence of hotels. Amenities found where there are hotels, for use of guests only.

Good but pricey shops in San Miguel offer Mexican arts and crafts, including an impressive display of silver jewellery and ornaments. Smart jewellers aimed primarily at the cruise crowd offer diamonds and designer-name creations at reasonable prices but out of the range of most ordinary folk. Most everyday necessities and the usual tourist T-shirts and tat are also readily available.

Daytime: beach activities and water sports, principally diving, snorkelling, diving, sports fishing and more diving; shopping; exploring local Mayan ruins, particularly El Cedral and the extensive San Gervasio site; botanical gardens and marine park at Chankanaab Lagoon. Nightlife: many bars and restaurants with live music until the early hours; couple of discos.

Good range of eateries concentrated in the main commercial streets of San Miguel, from streetside snacks to quality dishes of various cuisines. Most restaurants are thoroughly mid-range, with Mexican staples supplemented by pizza and pasta.

Taxis are the only truly viable option, but their prices are considerably higher than elsewhere in Mexico. A handful of rickety horse-drawn carriages operate within San Miguel and the immediate area. Car and scooter hire. Two competing catamaran companies run regular services to Playa del Carmen from the dock in San Miguel. A more arduous and less frequent car ferry goes to Puerto Morelos, 20 mls from Cancun. Shuttle planes to Cancun, several tourist sites and other towns.

Diving trips. A 3-hr tour of the island's S half. Mainland resorts of Cancun and Playa del Carmen. Mayan ruins at the mainland sites of Chichen Itza, Tulum and Coba. The mainland "eco-centres" of Xcaret, Xel-ha and Tres Rios.

Off the NE tip of the Yucatan Peninsula, on the Mexican Caribbean coast. 240 mls E of Merida. 40 mls S of Cancun and its international airport. Cozumel's own small domestic airport is 1¾ mls NE of its only town, San Miguel.

Approximately 12 mls off the coast, directly opposite the mainland resort of Playa del Carmen.

Telephone Area Code: 987
Website: www.cozumel.net

Airport : Cancun
Airport Code: CUN
Flight time from ther U.K.: 11 hrs