The compact historic centre of the city - measuring only around 800 yds from N to S - is the Pelourinho district with its 4 or 5 sloping, cobbled main streets and pretty coloured colonial buildings; it is the main focus of interest for tourists and the true heart of Brazilian carnival. The one-time capital has heavy African and Portuguese influences and deep musical traditions. 20 mls from the centre, on the city's NE outskirts, is Itapoa (often spelt Itapua), a fairly wealthy suburb with Atlantic beaches backed by dunes.

Brazilians, Portuguese, Germans, Italians and a small number of British make up the tourist profile. The area suits those interested in combining a colourful city break with a beach holiday; however, visitors seeking a romantic or tranquil break would be better off at the beaches farther N.

Large hotels and smaller local-style guesthouses (or "pousadas") dotted throughout the city. Itapua has the largest hotel in Salvador and also a campsite. Safes are available in most hotel rooms; in some places guests may be asked to sign a form declaring that they were offered the option of using the safe but declined.

12½ mls of beaches stretch from Porto da Barra E along the open Atlantic coast to Flamengo. Porto da Barra is the best beach in the city and has palms, a long promenade and a lighthouse. Stela Mares (the main stretch of fine, golden sand in Itapoa) is busy with locals at weekends and its rough waters are popular with surfers. Swimming is not recommended here or at nearby Flamengo Beach for this reason.

Mercado Modelo market in Pelourinho is full of stalls selling tourist goods, crafts and musical instruments. Itapoa has its own air-conditioned shopping centre but others can be found throughout the city.

Daytime: beach activities; exploring the old city centre, including the historical cathedral basilica and church and convent of Sao Francisco; horse riding; a few fairly minor museums (art, archaeology and Afro-Brazilian); water park. Nightlife: mostly street-based and very much local style, with internationally famous musicians playing alongside local street children on Tues nights; local bars; a few nightclubs; folk-dancing shows; capoeira displays (combined dance and martial art).

The whole range of international food, including fast food, on offer in the city, although only a limited number of sophisticated options. Thatched huts on the beach at Itapoa sell snacks. Carne do sol (sun-dried meat), moqueca (seafood with coconut milk) and acaraje (made with prawns) are popular regional dishes. Feijoada is the national dish, made of black beans and meat. Wine is almost consistently poor.

Although the city has an efficient bus service, it is not always safe and can be difficult to use unless you speak Portuguese or Spanish. "Executivo" buses are air conditioned, don't allow standing but charge about twice the price. Only registered taxis (indicated by stickers) should be used and the price or meter use agreed before setting off.

Half day: city tours. Full day: the coast to the N including beaches, lake and Praia do Forte with its turtle sanctuary; schooner cruise to the islands; jeep safaris.

In the NE of Brazil, on the Atlantic coast; capital of the state of Bahia. International airport 23 mls NE of the city centre.

A broad tongue of land enclosing deep-water Todos os Santos Bay; opposite the island of Itaparica on the other side of the bay entrance.

Telephone Area Code: 71

Airport : Dois De Julho
Airport Code: SSA