This large city of over 1½ million people is criss-crossed by an extensive system of rivers and canals with no fewer than 39 bridges. Recife means "reef" in Portuguese and refers to the extensive coral reefs that line the long Atlantic coastline. It was a major port in the 17th century, exporting sugar cane to Europe. The Dutch had a major influence, as can be seen in several palaces and the first astronomic observatory in South America. Recife Antigo, the old centre, is really the only place of interest apart from the beaches; it is particularly attractive when viewed from a boat at sunset. The Guinness Book of Records lists the city as having the biggest street carnival in the world, which takes place around the end of February each year.

Mostly Brazilians; only some international tourists. Of some interest for a couple of days, but neither the beaches nor the old centre probably warrant any more time than that. Best combined with a longer visit to a beach nearby. Would suit adventurous couples.

Mostly high-rise hotels concentrated around Boa Viagem Beach. Some smaller properties dotted around the city.

The 4½-ml-long Boa Viagem is the main narrow beach of fine, golden sand, backed by a promenade, jogging track and a busy road dotted with coconut sellers. Natural pools are formed by reefs at low tide. Sellers of all kinds of useless goods patrol the sands and, while not persistent, can be annoying. Large tower blocks behind the beach begin to cast shade before the end of the day.

One of South America's largest shopping centres is situated behind Boa Viagem Beach. The House of Culture, once a prison for slaves, now houses handicraft shops. The 19th-century Sao Jose market sells produce, clothes and souvenirs and is popular with tourists. The state is famous for its handicrafts and figurines; pots, dolls, masks, hand-woven bedspreads and hammocks are common buys at local markets. A handicrafts fair in Rua do Bom Jesus takes place on Sunday afternoon and evening.

Daytime: beach activities; boat trips; train museum; Golden Chapel. Nightlife: Rua do Bom Jesus in the old town has open-air bars and restaurants spilling onto the cobbled streets where there is often live music; the House of Culture has traditional dancing displays; a huge nightclub with laser shows in Boa Viagem.

Local cuisine is a combination of Portuguese, African and Indian influences and includes fish stew and sun-dried beef. Cartola is an unusual dish of fried bananas with cheese and sugar. Seafood (especially lobster and prawns), sushi, steaks and Italian food are all easy to come by. Self-service buffets with lots of good salads are very reasonable. Praia do Pina has the best concentration of restaurants and bars, open day and night.

The Metro system only serves more rural areas and avoids tourist sites. Air-conditioned buses are scarce and language can be a problem when using them, if you don't speak Portuguese. Taxis are cheap, easier and safer.

Half/full day: beaches of Porto de Galinhas, Gaibu or Calhetas. Full day: historic Recife and Olinda; historical town of Igarassu; Veneza Water Park; diving.

In the far NE of Brazil, only 8 degrees S of the equator. The capital of the state of Pernambuco. 187 mls S of Natal. Guararapes international airport is on the S edge of the city.

Mostly a flat coastal plain at the mouths of 2 wide rivers, Pina and Capibaribe, linked by a large network of canals. The old centre of the city is located on 2 islands reached by several bridges.

Telephone Area Code: 81

Airport : Guararapes International
Airport Code: REC