A modern city of 800,000 inhabitants which served as a base for allied troops in World War II. Today, however, its extensive sandy beaches and 300 days of sunshine a year are what attract visitors. The year-round heat gives the city a relaxed atmosphere and even the police ride around in beach buggies. In 1982 the local governor saw the potential for tourism and the Via Costeira road was constructed along the whole length of the coast in conjunction with a series of large hotels. Unfortunately, the infrastructure never followed and the hotels - backed by a huge area of vegetation-covered dunes - are quite isolated; there are few facilities nearby and public transport is poor. S of here, the bay of Ponta Negra, with its small "pousada" guesthouses and the large dune of Morro do Careca (Bald Man's Hill), has more of a village atmosphere. At the N end of the Via Costeira, a rather rundown area is slowly being improved. Here, the Mae Luiza lighthouse offers good views (when open) and a 16th-century fort sits at the N tip of the beach. A handful of historic buildings can be found in the city centre, such as the Palace of Culture and a few colonial churches, but are not particularly worth going out of your way to visit.

Brazilians and Scandinavians are the main nationalities, followed by Portuguese, Italian and an increasing number of British. The larger hotel complexes are good for families. However, you might feel that this is a long way to come for disappointing beaches and hotels that could be almost anywhere in the world.

Large hotels punctuate a long strip of Via Costeira, the coast road. The streets behind the beach at Ponta Negra contain around 100 smaller hotels and simpler "pousadas" (guesthouses).

The fine, golden sandy beaches are the main reason to come here, but the sea can be rough and there are rocks in places. The 4 urban beaches (Artistas, Meio, Forte and Mae Luiza) are backed by built-up areas, while along the more isolated Via Costeira most guests tend to stay by their hotel pools rather than venture onto Natal, the long, narrow main beach. Surfing is popular at Artistas Beach. The beach at Praia de Ponta Negra is probably the best; jet-skis and banana boats are available here.

A couple of large shopping centres and hypermarkets, of which probably Praia Shopping in Ponta Negra is a bit more atmospheric; it includes restaurants, live music and souvenirs. Ceramics, cashew nuts and bottles of coloured sand are popular tourist buys. The Centro de Turismo is not the tourist information office, but contains a small art gallery and market stalls selling unremarkable tourist gifts.

Daytime: beach and poolside activities as well as some natural swimming pools; small marine museum; historic fort; walks in the dunes; water park. Nightlife: live music venues; "cervejarias" (local beer halls); local dance shows, some featuring "capoeira", a Brazilian dance/martial art; large long-established nightclub with 6 different music areas; "videoke" bars; British-style pub.

All the large hotels on Via Costeira have restaurants. Ponta Negra has a concentration of some of the better places to eat. Seafood (especially prawns), Chinese, Italian, Brazilian buffets and "churrasco" (barbecued meat) are the most common options. Some fast-food outlets dotted around.

A large bus station (Rodovia) is situated in the N of the town, but local buses are probably best avoided unless you speak Portuguese or Spanish. Taxis are very reasonable and readily available.

Half day: sand-dune buggy and camel rides. Half/full day: diving; cosmopolitan Pipa Beach, 50 mls to the S, with its Riviera atmosphere; eco tours by 4-wheel-drive vehicles. Full day: fishing.

In the far NE of Brazil, the capital of the state of Rio Grande do Norte. 187 mls N of Recife. 11 mls NE of Augusto Severo international airport.

Centred on a fairly flat tongue of land with the wide Potengi River forming its W boundary and the Atlantic Ocean to the E. Some urban development continues across the river to the N and W. The narrow Pitumbu River marks the S edge of the city.

Telephone Area Code: 84
Website: www.turismorn.com.br

Airport : Agusto Severo
Airport Code: NAT