Extending 3 mls from N to S along the Nile and 1¾ mls from E to W, Aswan is often considered the poor relation to Luxor and has never fully geared itself up for mass-market, winter-sun tourism. The town's riverside walk, or corniche, is pleasant enough but the streets just behind this are unsophisticated, with the usual market and souvenir shopping bazaars set among a mix of tumbledown old buildings and more modern offerings. The town's charm doesn't lie in the streets, however, but along the Nile, which is dotted with islands at this point. A flotilla of white-sailed feluccas breezing down the river at sunset is certainly a sight to get the cameras clicking and the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel is still - as it was a century or so ago - a good place to watch from. The possibility of terrorist attacks on tourists in Egypt remains; Foreign Office advisory notices offer the latest official advice and should be consulted before booking.

Egyptologists and the generally curious looking for interesting excursion possibilities. A pleasant place to spend a few days while touring or a good base for a week or two's winter holiday - although there is no beach.

To suit most pockets and expectations, although overall quality and modernity lag behind that of Western properties of comparable star ratings. Most accommodation is clustered at either end of the town centre; many hotels enjoy fine vistas, while some are pleasantly situated on the mid-river islands away from the hustle and bustle. A few smaller properties in the backstreets are noisy and lack river views. Rates are higher in the winter months (Oct to May) than in the very hot summer months. The majority of hotels have security guards and electronic alarmed gates at the entrance.

Although Aswan has no beach it does have the Nile, which helps create a resort-type atmosphere. However, unless you are an avid collector of virulent waterborne diseases or exotic infections, do not under any circumstances swim or even dip your toes in the river.

Usual array of scruffy souk and bazaar-type shopping streets in the centre. Fierce bartering is the norm, but don't be put off. To deal with unwanted approaches by over-keen shopkeepers, a polite "no thank you" will usually suffice - until you pass by again! Souvenirs include papyrus, brass, jewellery and stone-cut pharaohs' heads. Some of the larger, better-equipped hotels have their own retailers providing everything from toiletries to postcards.

Daytime: sightseeing including local temple and tomb visits; Nile cruises; a river ride on a graceful felucca is almost obligatory; Nubian Museum and traditional Egyptian cultural events, including music and dancing, at Aswan Cultural Centre. Alternatives appear to be sunbathing around the hotel pool or bargain hunting in the teeming bazaars. Nightlife: limited to 1 or 2 of the more upmarket hotels and assorted bars. Handful of minor nightspots but generally insalubrious and ignored by tourists.

The insular nature of the hotels' facilities and visitors' half-board packages has stymied any possible growth of independent restaurants. A few riverfront cafes serve local dishes and some small restaurants on side streets off the corniche are reported to be acceptable. However, the food can be less than hygienically prepared or stored and to be on the safe side is perhaps best avoided.

Taxis (fix the fare before setting off) are the usual way of getting about, although distances are not great around Aswan itself. They can also be hired for sightseeing trips farther afield. Caleches (horse-drawn carriages). Boats ply between the mid-Nile islands. Trains go N to Luxor and Cairo. Many Nile cruises begin or end in Aswan.

Half day: tours of local sights including Elephantine Island, Aga Khan Mausoleum, Kitchener's Island Botanical Gardens, Unfinished Obelisk, Monastery of St Simeon and Tombs of the Nobles; High Dam; Philae Temple on Agilika Island (with evening sound and light shows). Full day: various temples including Kom Ombo (28 mls N of Aswan) and Edfu (77 mls N). Half, full or 2 days: temples of Abu Simbel, built by Ramses II. Organised excursions, picking up at hotels, are the norm though it is quite easy to arrange independent sightseeing using taxis and boats.

In the SE of the country. 125 mls S of Luxor. 590 mls by road S of the capital Cairo. Airport 25 mls SW of city.

On the E bank of the Nile River, at a point where the river narrows somewhat and the terrain becomes hilly and punctuated with rocky outcrops.

Telephone Area Code: 97
Website: www.tourism.egnet.net

Airport : Daraw
Airport Code: ASW
Flight time from ther U.K.: 5 hrs. 30 mins