Almost a small city, Alanya is notable for being given as a gift to Cleopatra by Mark Antony in 44BC - which explains the plethora of establishments with Cleopatra in the name. Centred on a small fishing harbour which is now overwhelmed by the trappings of tourism, the town comprises a grid of streets extending 1 ml or so outwards along the coast in both directions, packed with hotels and restaurants. The main E to W highway runs through the long axis of the resort, a source of constant irritation, noise and risk to all within 50 yds, with hotels facing the road suffering from 24-hr traffic. Soaring almost vertically upwards from the harbour is a rock headland crowned by medieval castle walls - mainly intact - within which are the remains of a 12th-century Seljuk town with a mosque, mausoleum, caravanserai and castle; there is even a small hotel, many small shops, stalls and snack bars. The atmosphere here is more like a mountain village resort, in marked contrast to the often ugly and unfinished seaside developments below.

With noise, fumes and billows of dust from near-continuous traffic, the appeal would seem to be small. Alanya, however, continues to defy logic by attracting hordes of normally selective Germans, as well as lesser numbers of other nationalities. It certainly has a bit of everything, albeit of negligible quality. With its many bars and clubs, Alanya serves the requirements of teenagers better than other age groups and tends to attract a young crowd.

Literally hundreds of hotels, mainly in the moderate to budget categories, all on cramped sites with little or no grounds. Newer, higher-class establishments have appeared along the coast, up to 8 mls in either direction, gaining a little in terms of peace and quiet but losing heavily in convenience.

With few interruptions, they extend for miles in both directions. West (Kleopatra) Beach stretches for a rather crowded 1½ mls and offers beach bars, water beds and parasols, and water sports including jet-skiing and parasailing. East (Bougainvillea) Beach stretches for 5 mls, is less crowded and offers plenty of sunbeds, parasols, beach bars and water sports. Both beaches have eateries lining the main beachfront road. However, the quality of the pebbly and gritty sand and the water can at best be assessed as only acceptable. The beaches drop steeply into the sea, creating a short yet strong undertow. This and negotiating an ancient lava field, lying just below water level, can make entering and leaving the sea something of a challenge.

Like all big Turkish towns, Alanya has a veritable bazaar of small shops with hundreds cramming the narrow alleys above the harbour. Carpets, leatherware and jewellery are in the majority, with many more general stores stocking souvenirs. Roadside stalls sell local pottery, from ashtrays to Ali-Baba jars.

Daytime: mainly beach-based activities and water sports; in town, the castle is the principal - and practically only - worthwhile sight, together with the Red Tower guarding the harbour; funfair and small park; trekking in hills; rafting. Nightlife: myriad bars, late-night music venues, discos and a couple of nightclubs, with the centre of activities based at the harbour; most hotels also offer cabaret shows and the obligatory Turkish night with belly dancers.

Throw a stone and see where it lands. There are hundreds of eating places with little to differentiate them. One of the more pleasant areas is at the foot of the castle hill, on the opposite side to the harbour and close to the tourist office.

Regular buses ply the main Highway 400 between Alanya and Mersin. There is also a frequent coastal dolmus (minibus) service.

Ancient harbour and city of Antalya for sightseeing. Tours inland to the mountains and pine woods. Archaeological sites, with theatres at Aspendos, Perge and Side. Very touristy caves at Damlatas. Jeep safaris. Boat trips.

Halfway along Turkey's S (Mediterranean) coast, 80 mls SE of Antalya airport by generally good coast road.

On a S-facing coastal plain, flat apart from the very steep, high headland and the hills inland.

Telephone Area Code: 242
Website: www.alanya.cc

Airport : Antalya
Airport Code: AYT
Flight time from ther U.K.: 4 hrs 40 mins