Poros is so close to the mainland that it lacks an independent quality. As it is almost completely given over to tourism, though, it has an easygoing holiday atmosphere. The two islands complement each other: Sferia contains the main town, Poros, but little else, and Kalavria has the beaches and tourist settlements. Facing the mainland settlement of Galatas, Poros Town is dominated by its quayside, with ferries, hydrofoils and water taxis coming and going regularly; cafes and tavernas line the inland side of the promenade. Behind this is a maze of small, winding streets and steps, and a hill topped by a clock tower. Heroes' Square, on the harbour front, commemorates both World Wars as well as the Greek War of Independence (1821), and is a focal point of the town. A naval training station occupies the land beside the channel, with frigates often moored offshore. The N side of Kalavria is sparsely populated, and its centre hilly and covered in pine woods. The main resorts, on Kalavria's S coast, are Askeli, Canali (beside the channel) and Neorion. Galatas, on the mainland, is surrounded by lemon groves. Though a major foreign tourist destination, Poros is still very Greek and not, compared with some islands, expensive.

Lower to middlemarket. Singles, couples, families and groups, Europeans and Athenians. Many Australians of Greek descent; mature American ladies. Good starting point for island-hopping or touring the mainland.

Pretty basic although usually clean and comfortable. Low- to middle-category hotels, apartments, studios and rooms, some with small pool.

Mainly dotted around the S side of Kalavria, with most accessed by bus. Canali, just beyond the naval station, is a fairly busy, long, narrow stretch of pebbly sand backed by bars and cafes; despite its plentiful water sports, it hasn't got the cleanest of seas. Neorion is a strip of gritty sand with water sports and beach bars but none-too-clean waters. Micro Neorion is a small, sandy bay with loungers but a limited range of facilities. The little cove of Love Bay is more secluded, yet with loungers and a taverna. Askeli, a long, sandy stretch backing onto a coast road, offers clean seas, water sports, bars, tavernas and restaurants. Monastery Beach is pebbly, with clean seas, good swimming and snorkelling, bars and tavernas. The mainland offers additional options.

Limited, with best choice in Poros Town. Souvenirs, good-quality traditional blankets and rugs, ceramics and jewellery. Plenty of minimarkets. Small market in Poros Town.

Daytime: mainly beach activities and water sports. Cycling. Sights include ruins of 6th-century-BC Temple of Poseidon (where Demosthenes, the Athenian orator and statesman, committed suicide), monastery, mainland and lemon orchards. Nightlife: taverna-orientated, with a handful of discos to "retire" to later; handful of dedicated bars in town. Greek nights in hotels and other venues.

Reasonably priced, informal, generally alfresco and mainly located around the waterfronts. Traditional Greek dishes - souvlaki, salads, lamb, etc. Some fast food and pizza.

Boats are the main source of transport, with inexpensive water taxis every 5 minutes or so between Galatas and Poros and to beaches. Buses: two begin in Poros Town (every half-hour during daytime) and head in opposite directions on Kalavria, serving main tourist spots and beaches. Reasonably priced taxis, plentiful in both Poros Town and Galatas. Cars, motorbikes and mountain bikes are readily available for hire.

Boat cruise around the island. Day trips to: Aegina and Angistri; Spetse and Hydra; and Mycenae, Naflion and Epidavros. Tour of classical Athens. Athens by night. Greek night, with traditional food and dance; Bouzouki night for more plate smashing.

Corinth 50 mls NW (by road); Athens and its airport 40 mls NE across the gulf.

In the Saronic Gulf, 350 yards off the mainland. Poros consists of two sheltered islands, the gently sloping Sferia and the much larger, hillier Kalavria, linked together by a bridge over a very narrow channel.

Telephone Area Code: 22980

Airport : Hellinikon
Airport Code: ATH
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins