This small, picturesque town of low-rise buildings is home to only 2,800 inhabitants and, owing to its rather isolated setting, has something of a laid-back island feel. Measuring about 1¼ mls E to W and ½ ml N to S, it is built in a semicircle round a sandy bay with a small harbour and is dominated by a rocky headland topped by a ruined Venetian fortress. The beach front is lined with numerous restaurants, tavernas, bars and cafes with pavement terraces. Behind this lies the Old Town, certainly the main attraction, with its maze of small streets, myriad little shops and low-key cafes and bars. A more modern residential development continues up the hill behind. Most tourist accommodation is found on the sloping roads leading down to the beaches. Wooded Lithitsas Hill squeezes the town into a narrow bottleneck at the E end of the promenade before the land opens out again into a pleasant valley between the hill and another headland behind Small Town Beach. The surrounding hillsides are planted with olive, orange and lemon trees; this greenery is a bonus, but it does attract mosquitoes, so come prepared.

All ages, but not a great favourite with teenagers. Also not ideal for those with walking difficulties, as there is a profusion of hills, steps, some poor road surfaces and few proper pavements. Very popular in high season (especially Aug) with Greeks and Italians, who crank up the decibel level and clog the streets with their cars.

Hotels are mainly small, family-run affairs and most are in the lower-category range. Hatfuls of rooms are available in the Old Town and elsewhere, plus lots of small holiday apartments used by tour operators. Virtually no all-inclusive hotels or anything in the 4- and 5-star categories.

Krioneri Beach, commonly called Town Beach, is a 250-yd crescent of almost white pebbles, shingle and coarse sand. The name means "cold water", from the underwater springs rising here. Parasols, sunbeds and pedalloes are available, as are tavernas and cafes. Piso Krioneri (Small Town Beach), just over the headland, is smaller and more secluded with the same composition, 1 taverna, sunbeds and parasols. Valtos Beach is 1-ml-long curve of shingle and fine gritty sand backed by tree-clad hills, and has its own tavernas, water sports, sunbeds, parasols etc. Parking here is difficult, but it is served by water taxi from Parga. Long shingly Lichnos Beach, 2½ mls E of the resort, is also reached by boat, and has tavernas, water sports and the usual facilities. All beaches tend to have shallow water up to about 5 yds before dropping steeply so children will need careful supervision.

A plethora of steep cobbled and narrow pedestrianised streets in the Old Town, a veritable Aladdin's cave of souvenirs, jewellery, pottery, leather and clothes boutiques. The more modern areas have more prosaic supermarkets, chemists, banks etc.

Daytime: coastal and country walks; beach; sightseeing in the Old Town including the fortress; public tennis and basketball courts; water sports including pedalloes, canoes, water-skiing, windsurfing and banana boats. Nightlife: tavernas, bars and cafes a go-go; night clubs.

More tavernas than you will ever need, all serving the same Greek specialities. Italian and pizzerias. Greek fast food, kebabs etc. Cafes and cake shops, some quite stylish.

Buses to local villages of Anthoussa and Agia or farther afield to Preveza and Igoumenitsa. Taxis available. Water taxis to beaches.

Boat trips to Corfu and Paxos. Nearby resorts of Lefkas and Sivota. Vikos Gorge at Zagoria. Aoos National Park and lakeside provincial capital of Ioanina. Clifftop monasteries at Meteora (2 days). Perama caves. Amphitheatre at Dodoni. Nikopolis ruins.

On the NW coast of mainland Greece, in the province of Epirus. 31 mls S of Igoumenitsa. 43 mls N of Preveza; slightly farther from Aktion airport.

On fairly steep, sloping ground between the Pindos Mountains to the N (finishing as Lithitsas Hill at the rear of the resort) and the Ionian Sea on its S-facing shore. A series of rocky headlands flank 5 or more bays of various sizes, each with pebble and shingle beaches. Just off shore lies a string of small rocky islands.

Telephone Area Code: 26840
Post Code: 48060
Website: www.parga.gr

Airport : Aktion Airport
Airport Code: PVK
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs 30 mins