Mainstream beach tourism only took hold in Lefkas in the 1970s and this late start has helped it retain a more traditional atmosphere than many other Greek islands. A mere 22 by 9 mls with a population of around 27,000, it has mainly mountainous, ruggedly beautiful terrain which is covered in pine, olive, cypress and plane trees. Most resorts are on the E coast, which is relatively flat as far S as Nikiana, at which point precipitous mountains squeeze the coast road to the very seashore. LEFKAS TOWN, the picturesque capital located on the N coast, has lots of tiny churches and old wooden town houses with corrugated metal roofs. It is well worth a day trip, if only because it offers the best shopping on the island. NIDRI, on the E coast, is where most of the tourist action is located and, although overdeveloped, it is not as bad as it appears at first sight, mainly because of its popularity with the yachting fraternity. It is a lively, fun town with the casual, party atmosphere associated with yachties and windsurfers. It boasts a reasonable range of shops, nightclubs, moody music bars and some harbourfront tavernas. The other E-coast resorts of LYGIA, NIKIANA and PERIGIALI are all undeveloped little fishing villages with a small pebbly beach and a few tavernas apiece. All the action is in Nidri. AGHIOS NIKITAS, on the steeply sloping NW coast, has only 1 proper street and a few back lanes and alleys, all as pretty as a picture postcard (the whole village is under a preservation order); it is also near the island's best beaches. VASSILIKI in the S is situated in a relatively flat valley flanked by spectacular mountainous headlands. It has a long beach, a picturesque curved harbour with lots of cafes and tavernas, plus highly rated windsurfing conditions.

Mature couples seeking a quiet hideaway and active types here for cycling, walking or water sports. Much favoured by the yachting fraternity for its sheltered waters while windsurfers rate Vassiliki very highly. Popular with Greek, Dutch, Italian and Scandinavian holidaymakers as well as the British.

Mainly small, family-run hotels and apartments, with a few better-quality developments including exclusive resort-type properties; most accommodation is located on the E coast. A growing number of upmarket villas in the more isolated, scenic areas. The newer properties are well designed and equipped; most room-only and B&B accommodation has a fridge and air conditioning.

Beaches on the E coast are very patchy - pebbly and not very good for swimming - especially around Nidri, where the presence of off-shore islands and the mainland make the sea more like a river. Pebbles range in size right down to the finest, which has the texture of sand but doesn't stick to the body. Kavos Beach in Nidri is quite long, very narrow, pebbly and crammed with loungers; the water is quite shallow and there are stunning views across the bay to the islands. Better, bigger beaches with the finest pebbles are found on the less developed W coast and are mainly accessed via steep steps or paths; some beaches also shelve steeply and currents vary around the island. Particularly good W-coast beaches are found at Kathisma and Athani; Vassiliki is a windsurfers' Mecca, but the beach is nothing to write home about. Most beaches have loungers and parasols, a nearby taverna and many offer water sports.

Lefkas Town is the only place with a decent selection of shops. Nidri has over 1 ml of shoulder-to-shoulder tourist outlets, mainly souvenir shops, boutiques selling beach gear, jewellers' and minimarkets. Most other resorts have a few minimarkets and souvenir shops. Good purchases are embroidery and lace (especially from the mountain village of Karia, where they are produced), olive oil and wine.

Daytime: beach; water sports, including windsurfing, skiing and diving; boat activities of one sort or another; fishing; cycling and mountain biking; country walks. In Lefkas Town, Faneromenis monastery, archaeological and folklore museums, old town and harbour. Nightlife: taverna-based, apart from Nidri and Lefkas Town, where a few late-night clubs, discos and bars operate, but things generally close up by midnight.

Tavernas offer expensive, locally caught fresh fish as well as the usual cheaper Greek fare. Italian, Indian, Mexican and Chinese options can be found. Fast food is strictly Greek style - no McDonald's here. Plenty of sticky-cake shops offering traditional honey-soaked pastries.

Buses (more frequent in high season) run from Lefkas Town down the E coast to Vassiliki, and to Aghios Nikitas and beyond on the W coast. Taxis are few and far between, even in Nidri and Lefkas Town. Ferry service to Kefalonia and Ithaca but it doesn't appear to run to any fixed timetable. Water taxis operate from Nidri to various beaches and from other resorts depending on the whim of the local boatman. Car and moped hire available in the larger resorts at reasonable prices

Full day: island tour; Lefkas Town; trips to various mainland sites; boat trips to the "Prince's Islands" of Sparti, Madouri, Skorpios (the Onassis dynasty's private pad, where all tourists are allowed ½ hr on the beach!) or larger Meganissi; plenty of pleasure cruises.

Just off the NW coast of Greece. 70 mls SE of Corfu. 20 mls N of Ithaca. Lefkas Town (also called Lefkada in Greek) is 13 mls SW of Aktion airport (located on the mainland).

Though technically an island member of the Ionian chain, Lefkas (or Lefkada) is actually joined to the mainland by a swing bridge and a confusing series of narrow isthmuses.

Telephone Area Code: 26450
Website: www.lefkas.net

Airport : Aktion Airport
Airport Code: PVK
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins