Cut through with streams and rivers, the island is unusually verdant and its many springs make it an exporter of mineral water. However, the N is rather barren and the whole of the Cyclades group is often very windy. Partly shrub-covered mountains rising to over 3000 feet tower over tiny settlements of white cube-shaped houses, then descend to a rocky shoreline. Andros measures a mere 25 mls by 10½ with a population of some 10,000 - a third of which lives in Andros town, the capital (also called Hora) on the E coast. The rest are scattered among the many small villages throughout the island. Four important families of wealthy ship owners are based in Andros town, resulting in a certain sophistication. An art gallery stages summer exhibitions of paintings by famous artists like Picasso and Toulouse Lautrec. The hill-top capital's pedestrianised streets with stylish neoclassical buildings make a pleasant place for a stroll. Batsi on the W coast is the focus for holidaymakers but retains the atmosphere of an authentic fishing village. It has a pretty jumble of white-painted, blue-shuttered houses around a deep bay with some scattered buildings up the hillside. About 3 mls N along the coast, Gavrio is the island's main harbour with little to interest the visitor beyond a collection of bar/restaurants along the waterfront.

The few European package holidaymakers, including German, Swiss and English are outnumbered by Greek tourists here. A growing number come for the good walking in spring or autumn when the weather is cooler.

Mainly in Batsi, with very few options in Gavrio, Korthi and Andros town. The vast majority are small, local concerns, with only a couple of larger establishments of up to 100 beds. Several show a certain modern elegance relatively rare elsewhere in the Greek islands. Some are quite remote and a car is needed to reach them.

Most beaches lack any facilities beyond the occasional taverna, and are backed by quiet roads or rocky cliffs. They are usually a combination of dark coarse sand with some pebbles and stones. Some are up to a mile long but all have calm clear water becoming deep quickly in places. Jellyfish and sea urchins are common. The most scenic strands are in the NE although these can be windswept. At one end of a deep protected bay, Batsi has a 500-yd stretch with patches of young pine trees, bamboo parasols and sun loungers. Aneroussa, at the foot of the upmarket hotel of the same name, is only some 50 yards long but has a rustic bar, parasols, sun loungers and attracts some nudists.

The resort area of Batsi Gavrio have a couple of minimarkets, bakeries, small local shops and a sprinkling of souvenir outlets. Additionally, limited upmarket jewellery and gifts can be found in Andros. Many shops close in the afternoon.

Daytime: beach activities. Walking (spring and autumn). Exploring the island's 60 villages, 4 monasteries and beaches. Andros town has 2 modern art galleries, nautical and archaeological museums plus its interesting old town. Nightlife: Gavrio, Batsi and Andros have collections of indistinguishable bars. Open-air cinema in Batsi.

Exclusively local tavernas, most with waterfront terraces, offering Greek food. The overwhelming majority are clustered in Batsi, Gavrio and Andros town although lone eateries can be found at some of the beaches. No real upmarket or international offerings.

A huge car ferry of cross-Channel proportions runs between the Gavrio and Rafina on the mainland 2 or 3 times a day. Surprisingly, no fast catamarans operate as on other islands. A limited bus service between Gavrio, Batsi, Korthi and smaller villages tends to follow the trail of the ferry timetable. Taxis, car and boat rental are available from the 3 main settlements. Return taxi trips can be arranged to more remote beaches.

Full day: walking tours; island tour by coach; Paleopolis archaeological site; neighbouring islands including Tinos. Sunset cruise (3 hrs).

On the central W side of the Aegean Sea. 42 mls E of the port of Rafina. 57 mls E of Athens with its international airport of Eleftherios Venizelos.

Most northerly of the Cyclades group of islands. Its two nearest neighbours are Evia, 8 miles NW and Tinos less than a mile to the SE.

Telephone Area Code: 22820
Website: www.andros.gr

Airport : Hellinikon
Airport Code: ATH
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins