A lively town developed in the 1960s, Pattaya has no real function other than that of a playground within easy reach of Bangkok, its principal claim to fame being nightlife like no other. The town has a raucous character, which abates for a few hours after breakfast, then steadily gathers pace again until late evening, when the whole place pulsates, driven by a very buoyant sex industry. With a central area measuring around 1½ mls by 700 yds (rising to 6 mls by 2 mls for the resort as a whole), the long Beach Road is linked to a parallel road by numerous lanes where neon signs flash provocative names of bars and massage parlours, and there is usually a crowd of young girls calling out for your attention. The N end of the resort is less explicit, but the only real escape is within the grounds of the hotels. Although street hassles and safety are not a major problem, the general environment is not conducive to relaxed, leisurely wanderings, and visitors should take care when out and about in the late evening.

Most visitors are middle-aged-plus Western males, travelling alone or in small organised tour groups. Some younger lads also make their way to the town to play the field and participate in beer-and-boy's-own "fun". Any couples and families tend to spend a large part of their time in the sheltered environment of their hotels, only visiting the nightlife areas out of curiosity. Pattaya is sold as a beach resort but if you're looking for a beach holiday, you might be better off choosing the considerably more attractive options in the S of Thailand.

Mainly large hotels ranging from simple, neat establishments to upmarket choices; basic guesthouses also available. Impromptu couples are much in evidence, particularly at the smaller and lower-grade properties. The better options for a beach holiday tend to be at the periphery of the resort and beyond.

The main resort beach is a long, reasonably pleasant affair of coarse sand backed by a tree-lined promenade about 1½ mls in length, but it does not fit the image of a cliched tropical beach. Loads of deck chairs, loungers and shabby sunshades run the full length, which is shared by some hawkers' stalls and water-sports operators. The water itself is murky and polluted, and primarily the domain of locals. The beaches to the N are generally cleaner and less commercialised; Jomtien Beach, just to the S of the resort, is a long, sandy stretch, slightly better than the resort's main offering.

Several large, modern shopping centres and department stores. Numerous small, open-sided local shops offer local souvenirs and fake designer goods; some handicraft stalls. Grocery shops and convenience stores, many staying open late into the night. Numerous tailors produce cheap, fast, custom-made articles. Buying gems, antiques and other high-value goods should be avoided except by genuine experts, since scams abound.

Daytime: a surprisingly large and varied range of activities, including most water sports (windsurfing, water-skiing, sailing, parasailing etc); lake cable-skiing; go-karting; bowling; paint-ball games; bungee jumping; glass-bottomed boat trips; game fishing; horse riding; golf; tennis; fitness centres; zoo; crocodile farm; orchid gardens; Mini Siam miniature village; couple of museums; water park at the top of Jomtien Beach. Nightlife: everything imaginable - and much that isn't, as even the more mundane options often come heavily laced with seedier elements. A surprising number of bars and restaurants have private, air-conditioned rooms for "massage" purposes; some bars have live Thai boxing matches. Those seeking more traditional live music and cultural shows are best sticking to hotel-based entertainment.

Street stalls and local eateries, international fast-food restaurants and several fine-dining choices that are based mainly in hotels. Prices tend to be on the expensive side compared with elsewhere in Thailand although a good meal shouldn't break the bank. Seafood is a speciality at the S end of Beach Road.

A few motorised rickshaws (tuk-tuks) are available, but the principal form of transport is the shared taxi, a converted pick-up truck with bench seats and a canvas roof on the back; these will stop anywhere if signalled. Charges for trips within town are nominal; outside this area prices rise rapidly and should be agreed beforehand. It is always a good idea to establish whether you want to charter the vehicle or not. Bus station for destinations farther afield; a railway runs along the coast a little way inland.

Short trips to various local sights, principally the elephant village. Exploring nearby national parks. Diving/snorkelling trips or boat trips to appealing off-shore islands such as Koh Luam, Koh Krok, Koh Phai and Koh Sak. Bangkok, Floating Market at Damnoen Saduak and Rose Garden cultural centre.

On the E coast of the Bight of Bangkok, in the Gulf of Thailand. 95 mls SE of Bangkok and its international airport.

On a wide, W-facing bay, with virtually flat land stretching over 10 mls inland.

Telephone Area Code: 38
Website: www.gopattaya.com

Airport : Bangkok International Airport
Airport Code: BKK
Flight time from ther U.K.: 11 hrs