One of Croatia's most sophisticated seaside resorts, having established itself as a popular year-round destination with the European aristocracy during the 19th century. With many fine, old Venetian-inspired buildings, acres of terracotta roofs and few concrete monstrosities, the town retains an old-world respectability reminiscent of the French Riviera, but without the expense. Sandwiched between the sea and a series of rugged hills and stretching for around 2 mls from N to S, it is unfortunately bisected by a narrow but busy coast road, dense with traffic, foggy with fumes, and lined with shops, bars and accommodation. There is a sizeable marina, although the centre focuses on an extensive lido equipped with spacious bathing decks, parasols, playgrounds, snack stalls and seawater pools.

Middle- and upmarket mature couples and increasing numbers of families. Livelier and more sophisticated than most resorts in Croatia, yet still not ideal for keen nightclubbers.

20-odd hotels, in predominantly older, often 19th-century buildings. Many are situated on the landward side of the main road among the shops and restaurants; few are set far enough back to ensure genuine tranquillity.

No beach as such. A picturesque waterfront paralleled by an extensive pedestrian promenade runs the length of town and beyond with a couple of short, narrow stretches of rock and stone at either extremity. A fine central lido with ample room for sunbathing and swimming in lagoon-style pools.

Good selection of designer boutiques and jewellers, alongside the usual collection of souvenirs, handicrafts, beachwear and motley bric-a-brac stalls.

Daytime: water sports including windsurfing, snorkelling, water-skiing, pedalloes and sailing; tennis; minigolf; exploring town with its churches, statues and parks. Nightlife: lively and quite sophisticated with several nightclubs providing open-air dancing and live bands as well as discos; open-air concerts and opera; small casino. Most venues are open until the small hours.

Varied choice of pavement cafes and some fine, sophisticated restaurants in addition to those in the hotels. Mediterranean-style cuisine with abundant seafood and grilled meats. Local beers and wines are good, if not award winning.

A regular bus service plies the length of town as well as providing connections to neighbouring Lovran and the commercial port of Rijeka. Abundant taxis.

Half day: various boat trips into Kvarner Bay and along the coast; organised bus trips to Rijeka; hiking in Ucka hills; medieval town of Moscenice; Postojna caves. Full day: nearby resorts of Pula and Rovinj; Venice (long day).

In W Croatia, on the NE coast of the Istrian Peninsula. 58 mls NE of Pula and its airport. 10 mls W of Rijeka, 4 mls N of Lovran.

On the broad Kvarner Bay, backed by the verdant foothills of Mount Ucka.

Telephone Area Code: 51
Website: www.opatija-tourism.hr/eng/

Airport : Pula
Airport Code: PUY
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs. 15 mins