Particularly fascinating is the Aleksandar Nevski Memorial Church. It was built between 1882 and 1924 to honour the 200,000 Russian casualties of the 1877-78 War of liberation and glitters with 18lb of gold leaf donated by the Soviet Union in 1960. It is one of the finest pieces of architecture in the Balkans and a place to lose oneself in contemplation.

Living up to its motto, "Ever growing, never old", this capital city is once again on a roll. The compact centre, which measures roughly 1 sq ml, gives an overriding impression of a modern, vibrant city, yet with monuments to its chequered past: gargantuan Stalinist-era structures rub shoulders with elegant 19th-century buildings while completely overwhelming Byzantine ruins and the ornate medieval churches and mosques. Binding together this mishmash is a network of wide, tree-shaded boulevards with trams and yellow cabs, open squares, parks and a maze of interesting village-like backstreets. The majority of the city's 1,220,000 people, however, still live in what appears to be a vast, dreary council estate which encircles the historic centre.

Predominantly business, with a much smaller summer clientele of package coach tourists. No real leisure facilities for long-term visitors or sophisticated shoppers. History buffs and people with an interest in Balkan culture will get most out of it.

With the exception of 1 or 2 poor-quality state-run hotels, most have modernised, are independently managed and come with an international price range. Larger international properties are appearing in the city centre as the market adapts to independent travel led by entrepreneurs and corporate travellers.

Mostly unelaborate and situated around Vitosha Blvd in the city centre. A few small shopping areas. Side-street flea markets abound, offering a range of goods from replicas of traditional icons to modern handicrafts. The vast, meandering vegetable market at Stefan Stambolov Street is worth a visit (if only for the colour and atmosphere), as is the seasonal Christmas market held in the cultural centre.

Daytime: impressive Alexander Nevsky cathedral and several churches; for those in Sofia on Sunday, don't miss a performance by one of the city's church choirs. National History Museum; Archaeological Museum. Art galleries. Royal palace also contains art and ethnographic museum. 900-acre Freedom Park. National Puppet Theatre. Several mosques. Markets (including large Christmas market). Nightlife: open-air summer concerts; theatre, ballet and opera; several nightclubs, some of which are rather dubious. Otherwise, mainly hotel based: casinos, discos with floor shows etc. All rather poor and unexciting. "Professional ladies" ply their trade in the lobbies and lounges of hotels.

Mediocre and generally meat based, with little for vegetarians. For meals of any quality, the better hotels are really the only satisfactory options. Value is reasonable. Good wine and beer (both foreign and domestic) widely available.

An extensive, modern system of trams and buses covers the city centre and outlying suburbs, supplemented by a city-wide private minibus service. Reasonably priced metered yellow cabs are widely available. A single underground line runs from Maria Louisa Blvd to the suburb of Lyulin.

Half day: 13th-century Boyana Church for some of E Europe's best-preserved medieval paintings; 14th-century Kremikovtsi Monastery. Full day: Mount Vitosha (15 mls), with hiking trails, scenic views and skiing (winter); Rila Monastery (60 mls), a UNESCO World Heritage Site in picturesque setting; Borovets (40 mls), winter ski-resort with attractive mountain scenery all year round; city of Plovdiv (80 mls) with its charming, well-preserved centre.

In W of country, 35 mls from Yugoslavia and midway between Romania to N and Greece to S. 240 mls W of Black Sea. 6½ mls W of its international airport.

Between Rila and Balkan mountains, lying in a narrow, flat valley with good road and rail links to the Black Sea coast in the E, Greece and Turkey to the S, Romania to the N and Yugoslavia and Macedonia to the W.

Telephone Area Code: 2
Website: www.sofiacityguide.com

Airport : Sofia Intl
Airport Code: SOF
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs