Meandering for 2 mls along the coast, with a frenetic centre, Golden Sands is second only to the more southerly resort of Sunny Beach in size and accommodation capacity. A purpose-built, family-friendly and rapidly developing town with a cheerful, bustling atmosphere, its established greenery camouflages many of the slab-like concrete buildings on the hillside above the centre. The "local" population of around 445,000 come in from Varna and surrounding villages and are employed almost exclusively in the resort's service industry or have set up umpteen small shops, stalls and snack bars in the hope of becoming an overnight capitalist success. Black-market currency dealing, dodgy car rental and prostitution are the shadier attempts at making a fast, easy buck. The resort's focal point is its long, attractive beachfront promenade which is dotted with grassy areas and unusual sculptures, and lined with shopping kiosks, bars and restaurants. Parking in town is difficult (unless there is hotel parking) and roads are generally poor. Private transport is discouraged from entering the resort and there are various checkpoints manned by police and tourist authorities during the peak season; parking fees or prepaid tickets are collected before you are directed to designated car parks, not always near your hotel.

An economical, unsophisticated choice for couples and families requiring little more than a good beach and choice of water-based activities. Predominantly hilly, it's not recommended for those with walking difficulties unless booked into hotels close to the beach or promenade. The resort fills up with locals from neighbouring towns at the weekend.

Fair range although most hotels (built during the Communist era) are substantial-looking, crude concrete constructions, some almost identically designed and ranked together. Hotel Ambassador with its pool and health spa is probably one of the most prestigious of the traditional set. However, there has been a rapid growth in hotel development in recent years and numerous later arrivals are beginning to outflank the older properties in terms of sophistication and more imaginative architecture. The newer hotels are generally of a good standard, although the fixtures and furnishings still tend to be in sparse, brash East European style.

Lives up to its name. A stretch of fine, golden sand runs beyond the length of the resort, fringed in places by low dunes and with some scrub between it and the promenade; scruffier at the N end around the marina and opposite Hotel Glarus. Gently shelving beaches and shallow sea make conditions ideal for safe swimming, especially for children, and an army of lifeguards gives added security.

Nothing of substance or quality available. The promenade is packed with a motley array of stalls and kiosks selling all kinds of tourist jumble along with copies of designer footwear, bags and shirts. Varna may prove a better bet for genuine souvenir hunters.

Daytime: beach with water slides and various water sports including PADI dive centre; Aquapolis water park; tennis; minigolf; swimming at Havana public pool or Hotel Ambassador (payable locally). Nightlife: unsophisticated and limited, considering its size, with a few lively bars and casino in the centre; gypsy evenings, folklore and Russian dancing.

Rather bland and unadventurous but good value; mostly grilled meat, reasonable salads and eggs in various guises. Most restaurants are situated in hotels but there is also a fair number of independents. Some ethnic options and a few seafood restaurants. Pizza, chips and burgers are available from most snack bars, with a well-known burger chain on the beach front; kebab kiosks on every corner. Specialities include Bulgarian bean soup, mackerel (skumriya) and a hearty meat stew (slav gyuvech); local wines and beers are well worth sampling.

A minitrain service circulates around town, stopping at many hotels, and is almost essential for those not staying in beachside accommodation. Taxis and buses regularly serve neighbouring resorts and Varna; available from a centre near the casino, at several points behind the promenade and at resort checkpoints on the coast road.

Book only through your tour operator; local companies may appear cheaper but can prove unreliable and/or uninsured. Half day: Varna and its dolphinarium; neighbouring resorts of Albena and St Konstantin; 12th-century Aladzha rock monastery and museum (3 mls SW). Full day: more southerly resorts of Nessebar and Sunny Beach; jeep safari. Two days plus: Sofia; Istanbul by air; Cairo by air.

In E Bulgaria, sandwiched between the neighbouring Black Sea resorts of Albena, 7½ mls N, and St Konstantin, 8 mls S. 16 mls NE of Varna airport.

Built below the coast road on a densely wooded hillside that descends (quite steeply in places) via a web of steep, twisting lanes and numerous steps, to a flat band of land beside the sea front.

Telephone Area Code: 52
Post Code: 9007
Website: www.goldensands.bg

Airport : Varna
Airport Code: VAR
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs