Measuring 13½ mls by a maximum of ½ ml, the island of Varadero divides into 3 areas, each with its own distinct character. The narrow strip W of the bridge is a quiet residential area of what were originally upmarket mansions (many American) in pre-revolutionary times; Al Capone's former home is now a restaurant here. This area can occasionally be affected by the smell from distant oilfields when the wind is from the right (or wrong) direction. The central part comprises the town, built on a grid pattern of no more than 5 avenues with narrow streets crossing at right angles. Again, it is mainly residential, but with small, simple houses, some of which would not look out of place in a Greek village. Finally, the area E of town is where most of the newer hotels are, with building work on-going in places and amenities - like the golf course and Marina Chapelin - following after; however, properties in this area are generally fairly isolated and self-contained. The beach runs along the N coast, while the water to the S varies from a narrow channel and lagoon in the W to an ever-widening, sheltered section farther E. Varadero residents are considered by the rest of the population to be privileged to live or work here. There is a tollbooth and fee to enter and leave the town - which effectively keeps out most Cubans. It is well patrolled by police, tourists feel safe and it does have a certain "sanitised" feel to it compared with Havana or the rest of the country. When the town was originally laid out, Central Park was clearly meant to be the planners' focal point, so, despite the fact that it has no particular significance for visitors, we have used it here to measure all distances to hotels.

Favoured by the majority of visitors to Cuba probably because of its reputation as a "safe option". Plenty of sun, sea, sand and water sports; the closest major resort to Havana. Lots of Italians, Spanish and Canadians.

A frequently encountered mix of older properties in prime positions but past their sell-by date and newer, smarter hotels farther from the centre: some, indeed, are positively isolated. Many are "all-inclusive"; others can't make their minds up and offer both options - check the tour operators' brochures carefully with regard to "all-inclusive" promises, as "luxury" items such as motorised water sports and imported drinks are often excluded. More upscale resorts are cropping up towards the end of the peninsula. Generally, 3-star properties will be fairly basic, probably dated and well worn so may disappoint; 4-star is likely to be the minimum acceptable for most people other than real bargain hunters. Without fail, all hotels offer a full entertainments programme, day and night.

6½ mls of continuous, fine, near-white sand with slight variations in width and steepness into the clear water. Often bordered by mangroves and dotted with tall palm trees. E of Bella Costa Hotel there are stretches of rocky shore, but all the hotels beyond this point still have their own stretch of sand. Plenty of water-sports centres - mainly nonmotorised - and snorkelling or scuba diving.

In town, the small shopping centre opposite Cuatro Palmas Hotel is as good as it gets, with half a dozen shops and a bar. Out of town the overpriced Plaza las Americas centre between the Melia hotels is a little bigger, with a couple of European designer clothes boutiques and a supermarket stocked with foreign produce, but will not set shopaholics' pulses racing. Other local shops may have the necessities but little else. Several tourist markets in town for T-shirts, handicrafts, hats and general tat. Cigars (see our comments in the Havana resort description) and rum are the things to buy.

Daytime: mainly beach activities, plus the nonstop activities in the hotels; Josone Park, a pleasant place for strolling, eating, boating on the lake or swimming at the pool; Marina Chapelin for boat/catamaran trips; submarine trips; fishing and snorkelling trips; jungle tour (by motorboat); swimming with dolphins at the dolphinarium; 18-hole golf course. Nightlife: shows in all hotels; cabaret nightclub at Internacional Hotel; discos.

Plenty of eating places in hotels (although these are mostly all-inclusive and not open to the public) and outside. Fare includes Cuban creole, "international", seafood (cheap lobster), grills and Chinese. Bear in mind, though, that food everywhere in Cuba is restricted in choice and often of comparatively poor quality, so it is definitely not a destination for gourmets.

There are public buses, but apparently not for tourists. An open-topped double-decker "beach bus" runs the length of the peninsula roughly every 70 mins. Metered taxis. Several minitrains run between hotels. Horse-drawn carriages.

Full day: Havana City, including a classic-car tour; Cayo Largo Island; Pinar del Rio for tobacco and scenery; old colonial town of Trinidad; Guama and Bay of Pigs (Bahia de Cochinos); Matanzas town; Cardenas town. Overnight: Cayo Coco, Santiago de Cuba. Evening: Tropicana Manzanas.

On the N coast, 14 mls NE of its own international airport. 20 mls NE of Matanzas, the provincial capital. 10 mls NW of Cardenas, the nearest town. 87 mls E of Havana and its international airport.

Though commonly referred to as a peninsula, this is in fact a long, flat island, linked to the fairly flat agricultural mainland to the S by 2 bridges towards its W end. The Atlantic Ocean lies on the island's N shore, and Cardenas Bay on its S shore.

Telephone Area Code: 5
Website: www.dtcuba.com

Airport : Juan Gualberto Gomez
Airport Code: VRA
Flight time from ther U.K.: 10 hrs