Originally a farming community (its name means "guard the cow", referring to 16th-century pirate raids), horse rearing is still a local speciality although the shoreline area - about 1 ml from end to end - is now given over totally to tourism: the first hotel was inaugurated in the late 70s by Fidel Castro who swam in the pool. The village inland comprises several rundown apartment blocks and is home to about 200 inhabitants. The whole place depends completely on its superb, carefully maintained beaches. Tropical rains in May and June; sweltering weather in Aug.

Strictly for the get-away-from-it-all brigade seeking sun, sea and sand. Water-sports and scuba-diving enthusiasts catered for. Lots of Canadians and a smattering of Europeans.

Mainly all-inclusive options, some sited at Playa Esmeralda, 3 mls away. However, most all-inclusives actually exclude motorised water sports and some limit drinks to locally produced rum and beer. So if you want to drink French champagne and water-ski every day for free, check the tour-operator's brochure very carefully.

The main beach is of the picture-postcard Caribbean variety with sand the colour and texture of caster sugar shelving gently into clean, warm turquoise water; 800 yds long and up to 60 yds wide, backed by trees for shade and with a picturesque flower-lined promenade. It features a diving centre, water sports, pedalloes, catamarans, sun loungers, bars, restaurants and even a disco. The private beach in front of Hotel Las Brisas is artificial. Playa Esmeralda is similar to the main Guardalavaca beach and is effectively for the private use of guests at its hotels.

A rather tatty shopping centre by the beach caters mainly for locals but does include a bank, minimarket and travel agency; a few other embryo businesses are scattered about. Hotels all have more attractive offerings. For important information on Cuban currency regulations, see under the Currency section in the Cuban country report.

Daytime: apart from the activities provided by hotels, there is very little apart from the beach, water sports and scuba diving, with several good dive sites featuring submerged caves and abundant sponges; catamaran cruises; horse riding; sky diving. Nightlife: a disco near the beach; all hotels provide nightly entertainment.

Main choice is in hotels, where the better, foreign-managed properties make a valiant effort with what is available but even they struggle to satisfy European expectations. A few independent offerings: seafood, Italian, Cuban and international. Food everywhere in Cuba is restricted in choice and often of comparatively poor quality - definitely not a destination for gourmets.

None. Taxis available. Car, moped or cycle hire. Horse-drawn carriages. Small minitrain runs from Guardalavaca to Playa Esmeralda (fee).

Full day: Cayo Saetia for beach and snorkelling (by helicopter or coach); Holguin city tour; Santiago de Cuba city tour (by helicopter or coach); Bahia de Naranjo Nature Park with aquarium and swimming with dolphins; deep-sea fishing; catamaran cruises; countryside tour; Bariay National Park; Taino village (recreated native Cuban Indian village). One/two days: Havana (by air).

Towards the E end of Cuba's N coast. 500 mls SE of Havana, 15 mls NE of Santa Lucia, 45 mls NE of Holguin and its airport.

Stretch of rocky NW-facing shoreline with several fine beaches backed by rolling tree-covered hills, sugar-cane fields and grassy agricultural land. Also includes the resorts of Playa Esmeralda (3 mls W), Playa Pesquero (11 mls W) and Playa Yuraguanal (7½ mls W).

Telephone Area Code: 24
Website: www.dtcuba.com

Airport : Holguin
Airport Code: HOG
Flight time from ther U.K.: 10 hrs