Covering 5 mls N to S and 3 mls E to W, Mombasa is second only to Nairobi in importance and size. It has long been a major international trading post, with a historical background that has nurtured the city's distinct Middle Eastern feel, particularly evident in its Arabic "old town" and the traditional Arab sailing dhows still found in its harbour. Its principal historic landmark is the Portuguese bastion of Fort Jesus, built in 1593, which overlooks the old town and old harbour entrance. The bustling old town is well worth exploring on foot, taking in its narrow streets and wood-balconied traditionally Arabic buildings as well as numerous mosques, temples and an Anglican Cathedral to the S. Beyond the old town lies modern-day Mombasa with its wide avenues, low-rise buildings and generally more relaxed atmosphere; its centre is the old marketplace at Mwebe Tayari (now the bus station), around which most of the hotels, shops and other amenities are clustered. Street crime can be a problem in Kenyan cities, so take reasonable precautions when out and about and avoid walking anywhere at night, particularly on the beaches; visitors are advised to take taxis. There is the possibility of terrorist attacks on tourists in Kenya; Foreign Office advisory notices offer the latest official advice and should be consulted before booking.

Something to suit most tastes and all pockets, from budget package tourists to upmarket independents, but definitely not for those seeking paradise. Plenty of contact with people and history as well as overwhelming sensory stimulation.

Central Mombasa has plenty of budget and mid-range accommodation, but only a handful of upmarket properties. The nearest beach resort is at Shelly Beach, on the mainland S of the city.

No beaches on the island, but good sand extends N and S on the mainland for up to 30 mls; see separate resort reports for Bamburi, Diani, Nyali Beach, Shanzu Beach and Tiwi Beach. The nearest is Shelly Beach, reached via the Likoni ferry and facing both Mombasa and the Indian Ocean, but it is not Kenya's most pleasant beach. Narrow or nonexistent in places, it can also be strewn with garbage or tar from oil tankers. Swimming is difficult except at high tide. Take shoes for walking on coral at low tide. The only beach amenities are in hotel grounds adjacent to beach. Hawkers and peddlers abound during the day and it is not safe to wander around after dark.

A good selection of shops in the old town selling antiques, jewellery, clothing, wooden carvings and bright khanga (cotton) fabrics. Moi Avenue is the main central shopping area. The large Makupa Market off Mwembe Tayari boasts a wide range of products; Mackinnon Market offers an abundance of fruit and vegetables.

Daytime: water sports, including scuba diving, glass-bottomed boat trips, windsurfing, sailing and snorkelling; tennis, squash, badminton and volleyball; golf course at nearby Nyali; city tours taking in mosques, temples and museums, including Fort Jesus with its national museum, the "Mombasa tusks" at the entrance to the town centre, 16th-century Mandhry Mosque and golden-spired Jain Temple; dhow cruise to floating market. Nightlife: handful of discos in the centre, some very rough and popular with prostitutes and their punters; smarter options in the mainland beach resorts, easily reachable by taxi; a few cinemas offering English-language films.

Good choice of local fast-food outlets offering coconut, fish, chicken, rice and beans, mainly with Asian flavours. The centre has the better restaurants, serving Chinese, Indian, Italian and Swahili cuisines; local favourites include freshly caught seafood and nyama choma (grilled meat - usually goat - cooked to order). Snacks and drinks are available from the wide selection of juice bars around town, many open 24 hrs. It is not advisable to drink the local water; stick to bottled varieties.

Taxis are the usual means of getting around, but fares should be agreed before setting off as they are quite expensive. Frequent buses N to Kilifi and Malindi, and daily early-morning departures for Lamu. Public "matatus" (pick-up minibuses) go everywhere but tend to be overcrowded, confusing and in poor condition. The Likoni ferry links Mombasa to the coast southwards, carrying cars and foot passengers; there are frequent queues. Daily overnight train to Nairobi. Car hire is available but expensive and road conditions are poor.

Half day: bush tours taking in inland village, folk dancing and handicraft displays; Shimba Hills National Reserve; dhow (traditional sailing boat) cruise with lunch; Mamba Village crocodile farm; Bamburi Quarry nature trail; Bombolulu Cultural Centre with displays of tribal art and dancing; Marineland and Snake Park. Full day: Wasini Island, including picnic lunch and snorkelling; Malindi and Gedi ruins; Lamu Island by air and boat; deep-sea fishing trips; Tsavo East National Park (early start) to view wildlife, including giraffes, rhinos, gazelles and elephants (overnight lodge and longer stays can be arranged). Two days plus: safaris to Amboseli National Park with Mt Kilimanjaro as a backdrop.

In the SE corner of the country, on the coast facing the Indian Ocean. 300 mls SE of the capital, Nairobi. 70 mls S of Malindi. Moi international airport is 6 mls W of town.

Occupying an island in a creek, linked to the mainland by causeways and bridges, and for points S by the Likoni ferry. Offshore coral reefs fringe the coast between ½ ml to 1 ml out to sea, several of which are designated marine parks.

Telephone Area Code: 41
Website: www.mombasaonline.com

Airport : Moi International
Airport Code: MBA
Flight time from ther U.K.: 10 hrs