The Gambia is now a year-round destination, though it tends to be much quieter in the summer months. The capital, Banjul, is a small, busy port at the mouth of the Gambia River with little, apart from Albert Market, to entice the tourist and a "down-at-heel" ambience nurtured by the maze of narrow backstreets with their shanty-style dwellings. The main tourist area is farther S along the Atlantic coast where sandy beaches and hot, dry weather attract European package-holiday tourists in the peak winter months. While still maintaining an African feel, the predominance of international restaurants and bars and the comparatively high standards of the hotels in the resorts of Cape Point, Bakau, Kotu and Kololi reflect the impact of tourism on this part of the country. Along this 6-ml strip of beach are about 20 hotels. However, tourism remains low-key compared with other beach resorts worldwide, and there are plenty of opportunities to experience Gambian entertainment and culture. Most people speak English since it is taught in schools, although it will not be their first language. The majority of Gambians are Muslim, so sensitivity to dress code is appreciated. The local people are extremely welcoming and friendly, but, owing to high unemployment, tourists are seen as targets for purchasing goods and services - postcards, food, jewellery, local handicrafts, services of a "guide", anything may be offered. Many visitors complain about "beach boys" or "bumsters", young men who can be very persistent with their sales techniques. However, beaches are patrolled by tourist police and hotel security guards, which prevents the situation from causing too much hassle. General rules of security apply - it is not advisable to carry too much cash or valuables. Resort areas are generally safe after dark, but local representatives will advise against walking along the beach after sunset. Thanks to a beefed-up police presence, crime is now much lower. All hotels provide safe-deposit boxes in rooms or at reception and taxis are stationed outside every hotel.

Sun, sea and sand are the main attractions for beach-seeking holidaymakers, predominantly from the UK, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium. Nightlife is tame and will not appeal to keen "clubbers". Bird-watching, with a huge number of species to spot, is a major attraction. Fishing is an up-and-coming activity, and every Nov there is a major fishing competition.

Hotel standards have improved greatly and a few reach international levels. Some smaller, more intimate properties. Most accommodation is located on or near the beach to benefit from the Atlantic breeze. Guesthouses are appearing along the tourist tracks; some limited accommodation is available for adventurers upcountry.

Stretching all the way from Fajara southwards into Cassamance (S Senegal), the beach is splendid - soft, fine sand with a few rocky outcrops and palm trees. Even around the hotels, the beach is generally uncrowded and unpolluted, although it is not unusual to see stray cattle. All beaches are public, but hotels claim stretches of sand, providing security guards and loungers. High, frequent Atlantic breakers coupled with strong undercurrents demand caution. Most beaches have a flag system indicating safe times and areas for bathing. In the river estuary from Cape St Mary to Banjul the beaches are fine sand, which, depending on the tide, is either a pale golden colour or streaked with dark grey. The coastline is also suffering from erosion and this is more evident outside some hotels where sandbags are in place.

Away from hotel gift shops, the best bargains are to be found in markets, where bartering is essential: expect to pay no more than half of the original asking price. Wood carvings, jewellery and brightly patterned materials are popular buys. Local tailors make garments to individual specifications at short notice. Albert Market in Banjul is large and entertaining, with a craft market catering mainly for tourists. Most household items are now available in the supermarkets, although not always recognised brands.

Daytime: water sports, with instruction offered at some hotels; ocean and river fishing; horse riding on the beach; squash, tennis and an 18-hole golf course at Fajara Hotel; Banjul has a fascinating museum charting the history of West Africa. Nightlife: mainly restricted to hotels or bars and restaurants nearby; a few beach bars opening late; casino in Kololi; most hotels offer "African Nights" featuring local music and dance. The atmosphere is informal and dressing up is not required, although shorts and vest tops are not allowed in most hotel restaurants for dinner.

A wide variety of restaurants in the Atlantic resorts. International cuisine includes Italian, Lebanese, Chinese, Indian and Caribbean, with standards almost universally high. Prices are still very reasonable and are cheap compared with the UK. Fresh fish and seafood are tasty and good value. Taxi drivers will quote return fares to restaurants with 2 hrs waiting.

Most tourists use taxis, available at most hotels. A board outside each hotel shows the fixed prices for destinations and waiting times. Bush taxis travel the main routes and are less expensive, but are not for sole use and stop frequently to pick up other passengers. Car hire is not widely available and only for the brave.

Half day: city tour of Banjul (general orientation with visits to museum, Albert Market and tie-dying or batik-making premises); early-start bird-watching along the creeks in dug-out canoes (with breakfast at a lodge set on stilts overlooking a mangrove creek); camel safari along the beach; evening cruise through the creeks; nature reserves at Abuko and Bjilo Forest; crocodile farm. Full day: jeep tour into the S of the country, stopping at local schools, villages, Tanju fishing village and the beach; trip to home of Alex Haley's Kunta Kinte and the site of a former slaving station; ferry and 4-wheel drive through the bush and mangrove swamps near the Senegalese border to paradise-like Jinnack Island. Two days: Tendaba Camp and Jenjenbura (upriver with an overnight stop).

A third of the way down the W coast of Africa, midway between the Tropic of Cancer and the Equator. Surrounded on 3 sides by Senegal. The capital, Banjul, is at the W end of the country, at the mouth of the Gambia River. The Atlantic coast resorts are located between 6 and 13 mls farther W. Yundum International Airport is 18 mls S of Banjul.

Less than 20 mls wide, the Gambia consists of a narrow strip of flat land either side of the river extending the entire 300-ml length of the country. Mostly dry grassland or open savanna woodland, little of the original subtropical forest remains. Most of the tourist resorts are concentrated on its Atlantic coastline in the extreme W of the country.

Website: www.gambianet.com

Airport : Yundum International
Airport Code: BJL
Flight time from ther U.K.: 6 hrs