Despite decades of adverse publicity from the highbrow press, Benidorm remains the most visited holiday resort in Spain and its popularity shows no signs of flagging. The resort's initial raison d'être, its wonderful beaches, continue to be the biggest draw but in recent years major theme parks and golf courses have been added, and in an attempt to move itself upmarket, Aiguera Park and amphitheatre have been built in the centre of town offering free cultural activities. And while the New Town may be a mega resort of concrete canyons, the Old Town, on the promontory that divides the two main beaches, retains a small-town Spanish feel.

While it is widely assumed that Benidorm is a Little Britain-by-the-Sea over a third of its five million annual visitors are Spanish. In fact the resort is neatly split with the Playa de Levante catering largely for the British while the Playa de Poniente is largely patronised by the Spanish and other nationalities. Benidorm's winter climate is particularly mild and attracts a large number of retired British and north Europeans.

Benidorm is on the Costa Blanca, on the east coast of Spain, 42km (26 miles) northeast of Alicante and 55km (34 miles) northeast of Alicante Airport. Benidorm occupies a large crescent-shaped bay bisected by a small promontory on which is sited the Old Town. The mountains begin to rise behind Levante and there is excellent hill-walking just a few kilometres outside the town.

The Bay of Benidorm is neatly bisected by the lookout point known as the Balcón del Mar, which looks east to the Playa de Levante and west to the Playa de Poniente. The latter is the larger at 3km (2 miles) while the Levante stretches for 2km (1.3 miles). A third, smaller beach, Playa del Malpas (120m) nestles in between the Balcón and a jetty which divides it from the Playa de Poniente. All comprise immaculately manicured golden sand which is cleaned daily. The water quality is no less impressive with filtration systems in the bay meaning the beaches have flown their Blue Flags since 1987. Poniente is less crowded than Levante. Beach facilities are comprehensive and well ordered, extending to biblioplayas (beach libraries) offering the chance to read foreign newspapers free of charge. All watersports are accommodated including a cable ski mechanism on Levante, which offers waterskiing without the need for (or expense of) a speedboat.

In and around the outskirts of Benidorm are four major theme parks and water parks. Terra Mítica (Carretera Benidorm-Finestrat) (www.terramiticapark.com), one of Spain's biggest theme parks, is complemented by the gentler Terra Natura (www.terranatura.net), a round-the-world theme park touching on various cultures and peoples, though most memorable for its animals. It also includes a water park. For the biggest choice of white-knuckle flumes and chutes however Aqualandia (Sierra Helada, Partida Bayo) (www.aqualandia.net) is one of the country's largest water parks. Mundomar (Sierra Helada, Rincón de Loix) (www.mundomar.es) is Benidorm's fourth major theme park with performing dolphins, seals and exotic birds. A boat trip to Benidorm (Peacock) Island is a popular excursion.Two 18-hole championship golf courses have recently opened just 10 minutes from the centre of town at the Westin Real de Faula Golf Resort & Spa (Avenida Eduardo Zaplana). There are numerous other golf and tennis clubs within easy reach of Benidorm.

Benidorm is a temple to family fun and most first-time visitors beat a path to Terra Mítica and Aqualandia (see Beyond the Beach) where they find the very best white-knuckle rides, children's entertainments and shows. Aside from the theme parks there are dozens of small amusement parks, arcades and mini golf courses.

By its sheer size Benidorm includes a reasonable selection of Spanish and international shopping, mostly to be found in the Old Town or behind Poniente beach. The vast majority of the resort's shopping however is price driven.

The biggest night out is at the Benidorm Palace (Carretera Dr Severo Ochoa, Rincón de Loix) (www.benidorm-palace.com) , hosting 2,000 guests. Classical Spanish dancing and flamenco rubs shoulders with spectacular and glamorous variety acts. Look out too in the summer for some of the world's biggest name rock and pop stars who play in the bullring or in the city's often overlooked, but very lovely, amphitheatre gardens right in the town centre. Elsewhere nearly 500 bars and over 150 disco-pubs and clubs stage cabaret, karaoke, live music and adult-only entertainment. Most of these are to be found behind the Levante beach in the ‘New Town', the vast majority with an Anglo or international theme. The busiest nightclubs are around ‘The Square', on the corner of Calle Lepanto and Avenida de Mallorca. Serious clubbers head just out of town to long-established mega-venues such as KM, Ku, and Space on the Carretera Antigua N-322 (‘the top road'). There is a lively gay scene in the Old Town.

With nearly 400 restaurants and 270 cafes you won't go hungry in Benidorm, particularly if you enjoy fast food, pub grub and chips-with-everything choose-from-a-photo menu. However, away from the New Town, all kinds of international and Mediterranean cooking can be sampled and the Old Town, particularly Calle Santo Domingo, has a good selection of authentic Spanish restaurants and some excellent tapas bars.

Benidorm is over 6km (4 miles) from east to west so don't expect to cover it all on foot. Frequent buses run along the main thoroughfares behind the two beaches but in the summer Benidorm's roads often become choked by traffic. Dedicated buses run from the centre to the main visitor attractions.

The most popular excursion is to Guadalest (16km/10 miles northwest), an old Moorish citadel which enjoys a magnificent panoramic situation and a charming small Old Town. The picturebook artists' town of Altea (12km/7.5 miles north east), is the most beautifully preserved village on the Costa Blanca and has some lovely restaurants and art galleries.

Treat yourself to a glitzy night out at Benidorm Palace (see A Night on the Town). The town isn't known for its gourmet restaurants even though there are some very good Spanish choices in the Old Town. Instead take a trip to Altea where you will be spoiled for choice both in terms of food and surroundings.

Alicante Airport (ALC)

Between May and September sunshine is guaranteed with the daily average maximum between 23ºC and 27ºC. The ideal time to visit is June (average daily max temperature 23ºC) just before the crowds arrive. September and October (average daily max temperature 25ºC and 21ºC) and April and May (19ºC to 21ºC) are also pleasant. However rainfall is highest in September and October. The winters are mild with six hours of sunshine per day.